This is one of those projects that you build for immediate need in the house. The design is purely based on the functionality and easy use. We needed a door hang towel drying rack to replace the free standing drying rack to clear up floor space and not to be an eye sore in the room. Hiding them behind the door seemed to be the best option for us. So, here is the build with all the details you need to build your own.
I made this rack with a couple of pine wood 1x3s, 3/4″ dia aluminum rods (these are spindles used for staircase) and a set of hanging hardware. As for the hanging hardware, I salvaged them from a children’s over the door basket ball hoop. But if you want to buy a similar item, try this hanger from amazon. Its not exactly same but it will work with additional fastening screws.
- 1×3 pine wood – 6ft length – 2 nos
- Round aluminum spindles – 26″ length – 4 nos
- Door hang hardware – 2 nos
- Pocket hole screws – 1-1/4″ length
- 3/4″ wood screws
- Wood glue
- Gorilla glue
- Creme wax clear sealer + Wax brush
- White paint
- Power drill
- Pocket hole jig
- Orbital Sander
- Trim router
- Circular saw
- Miter saw
DIY Door Hang Towel Drying Rack
I took a quick measurement of the door and the space behind it to determine how deep the rack can go without hitting the adjacent wall. Also, in order to hang a wet bath towel without any folds you need at least 25″ length and preferably more than two rods to hang two bath towels and reusable clothes. Based on these needs and measurements, I came up with the below design.
It has two layer design with two rods on each tier and they are spaced alternately to avoid overlap when you hang the clothes. Best part is that it can be hung on the door without the need to drill any holes or make any alterations. Its something important when you live in rental homes.
- Cut all the wood pieces as per above cut list diagram
2. Make pocket holes on both ends of the 8″ pieces, 25.25″ long pieces and one end of 5 inch pieces.
3. The other end of the 5 inch pieces are routed to seat ‘over the door hanging hardware’ in flush level. Or you can skip this step if you don’t mind a little undulation.
4. The side arms of the two tiers are tapered in design. You can cut this with a tapering jig on table saw. But I do not have a tapering jig. So, I decided to cut them with my circular saw and a DIY cross cut jig. I taped two identical pieces together and set the angle with scrap wood and shim(refer below image). Then, cut the long taper cut on both set of arms. To cut the shorter tapers I used my miter saw.
5. Next, we have to make circular slots on the four arm pieces where the rods would go. Mark them and drill with a 3/4″ forstner bit.
Finish and seal:
I like the wood grains on pine. So, I decided to do a white wash on the wood to go along with the white painted doors. To do this, you have to mix water and white paint in 1:1 ratio. This ratio can also be adjusted according the effect you need. Basically, the paint should be watery when you apply it over the wood. More the water, lighter the color on the wood. Apply watered down paint on the wood and then quickly wipe it off with a clean rag before the paint dries. This will reveal the wood grains on the wood. If you feel the white is on lighter side, then apply one more coat. I did only one coat on the pine and I loved it.
Once paint is dry, I sealed it with clear wax. This is great on such white wash finish projects as it won’t yellow in time like other sealers. Just apply with a good brush and wipe off the excess.
Finally, assemble all the pieces together.
It saves floor space, has ample rack space to hang towel, clothes and most importantly it is renter friendly!